RESTAURANT REVIEWS
ManiMani (ΜΑΝΗΜΑΝΗ), 10 Falirou, Athens – Fantastic modern variation on a Greek salad with dried cherry tomatoes and cherry tomatoes, lemon ice and the best black olives I have ever tasted - sweeter with a pulpy centre like a grape. Sea Bream was very good.
Lokall Dutch Beer Bar, 46 Konigstraat, Haarlem – Stopped in for a couple of Dutch ciders. A nice local bar outside the tourist areas.
Seawolf, 35 Dimitrakopoulou, Athens – had great marinated fresh anchovies and then, what they called “crayfish” were actually small langoustine with a risotto of tomato and other minced ingredients.
Taverna Dion, 30 Apollonos, Delphi, Greece – Simply family run restaurant. The €15 prix fixe meal (for lunch) included Greek salad, moussaka, chicken souvlaki and baklava. Had a 500ml carafe of white wine for €5-6.
Kraantje Lek, Duinlustweg 22, Overveen, The Netherlands – Had my first Aperol Spritaz and loved it. A great little country pub.
Ta Tria Gourounakia, 7 Kapodistriou, Thessaloniki was very good. Tried at Ta Tria Gourouvakia: Samaropetra Kir Yianni, Sauvignon Blanc - nice but ordinary; Petit Fleur, the Parparoussi Winery, Sideritis grape rose. Can’t remember details of meal I had there.
Naan Bar, 60/1 Melita St., Valletta
I had Old Delhi Butter Chicken with rice and it was the best butter chicken I have ever had!
Had the Fenici Rosé DOK, made from Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah, from Meridiana, Malta.
This is a very good Maltese wine! Their description - “Crisp with flavours of pomegranate and red currant.” To me, there is a crisp beginning and the hint of red currant is prominent in the finish. So good I had 2 glasses! The meal was so good I went back the following night (and ran into another customer who had done the same!) On the second visit I had the Lamb Saag which was also the best I’d ever had. World Culinary Award winner in 2021 & 2022 voted Malta’s best restaurant.
Sunday in Scotland, 16 St. Lucia St., Valletta had good croissant & coffee
Dimitri Valletta, 339 St. Paul St., Valletta - I stopped in for late evening light meal and had the terrine of the day which that day was hamhock. I didn’t expect much but it was unbelievably good. It had two condiments: guacamole and beetroot, and also a tiny salad with a light honey dressing. The presentation was first rate and the combination of flavours make it one of the finest dishes I have had. I personally complimented the chef on how great the dish was. This guy must be aiming for a Michelin rating, it was that good. The combination of flavours and textures was perfect. Small place with two tables on the main floor: a table for four and a table for two.
Osteria dell Agnolo, 20 Borgo S. Lorenzo, Florence. Don’t come here - wine too warm. Steak was just fairly good.
The Manor Hotel Restaurant, 26 Hendford, Yeovil. Food was okay. Nothing memorable.
Coopers Mill Pub, Brunswick St.,Yeovil Had a great roast lamb dish. Also had a good cider.
Moustique, 6 Oude Groenmarlt, Haarlem is a Michelin rated restaurant. I ordered the 3-course chefs menu. The amouse bouche was excellent as was the starter of, I think, halibut slices with accompanying streaks of flavourings. The amuse bouche of 3 items were really good. The 1st course of, I think, mackerel with chimichurri and another condiment was excellent. The main of a tornado of beef but the meat was a little tougher than I expected it to be, but the sauce with the steak was good. It was accompanied by some vegetables: carrot, lightly charred corn and another vegetable which were good. I had a nice red wine with the main course (I had them choose it and I didn’t note it). For the 3rd course I chose the cheese plate rather than a sweet. The cheeses were good. I accompanied that with a glass of Kopke 20 yr old port, also very good.
I thought I wouldn’t get enough food given the tiny portions that these kinds of restaurants typically provide, but even with only three courses (and the amuse bouche) I was full at the end. I thought €45 for a Michelin rated restaurant was a good deal not including wines (there were 4 and 5 course available. I asked and the 4-course came with a fish course.)
Sparne 66, 66 Sparne Straat, Haarlem
Had their ribeye steak. It was excellent - cooked just right with great flavour - and with a delicious sauce. The accompanying vegetables were also very good. The only issue that I found here (and I find in so many restaurants) is that they serve red wine too warm. Bottles off the shelf in the heat of summer are just too warm to be properly enjoyed. (15-18C is the usual range depending on the variety.)
De Ruyffelaer, De Stuersstraat 11, Ypres
I had the Pork Carré with beer sauce which was very good. Came with a side order of mashed potatoes that had something added, might have been parsnip which wasn’t too bad especially with the sauce.
Bistro De Schilder, Jan van Eyckplein 13, Bruges
The rabbit in cherry-beer sauce was fantastic! A great dish! The house rosé - tasted like a French rosé – was nicely dry and had a light berry taste. Very good.
Bistro ‘t Gezelleke, Carmersstraat 15, Bruges
Nice family restaurant away from the tourist area in a quiet neighbourhood. Also, no music in the outdoor patio. Had the “North Sea Bouillabaisse with rouille, cheese and bread.” Quite good but I’ve never had it before so I don’t really have a reference. Not great but not bad. Had a Provençal rosé with the meal which was very good. (A man there, perhaps the owner, recommended two restaurants in Paris: La Coupole and Harry’s New York Bar.)
Chocolaterie Spegelaere, 92 Exelstraat, Bruges. Excellent hand-made chocolates.
Kunsthistorisches Musum Cafe (Cafe im Kunsthistorischen Museum Wien), Vienna (Recommended by Fred Plotkin on Rick Steves’ Vienna podcast). There are a few different brunches on offer – some are more like a Continental breakfast just with more variety, but I order the larger one that included a poached egg. It is a full meal: Poached egg, muesli with yogourt, ham, smoked salmon, 3 cheeses, bunt cake, fruit cup, two tiny jars one of marmalade and one of honey, and a basket with three kinds of bread.
You can reserve but I just walked in. €25.90 but worth it for ambience and quantity (this held me over until dinner). Served only on Saturday, Sunday & bank holidays.
Cafe Tirolerhof, Führichgasse 8, Vienna (Recommended by Rick’s Vienna tour guide, it is near Cafe Zacher but not as touristy) I had apricot compote filled crepes with a cappuccino – both very good.
Demel, Kohlmarkt 14, Vienna
(Recommended by Rick’s Vienna tour guide for best the Zachertort)
I had apple strudel with a cappuccino. Strudel was very good (don’t remember cappuccino but it was probably good).
Goldfisch restaurant, Vienna. Fish soup good. Broth was excellent but fish was of only one kind - salmon with a couple of large shrimp added. More variety of fish would have been better. Accompanying Chardonnay was quite good. I think it was their own label wine.
Edlmoser Weingut & Heuriger, Maurer Lange Gasse 123, Vienna (Voted #1 heuriger in Vienna)
Have buffet style with lots of variety. Roast pork with au jus was great! Spinach quiche was 95% spinach! Great. All Austrians here! Tried the Edlmoser Gemischter Satz 2022 (Goldmedaille!) - typical GS fruitier than some. No chard notes like Mayer yesterday’s, more Pinot Grigio. And a little drier. Very good. Then tried Edlmoser Grüner Veltliner 2022 - very good!
Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Pfarrplatz 2, Vienna (Oldest heuriger in Vienna - 1683!)
“Maki” was interesting Austrian-Japanese fusion - rice wrapped with prosciutto. Dessert was apricot dumpling. Too much dumpling compared to apricot and way too much butter – too heavy overall. Tried their 2022 Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC - somewhat Pinot Grigio and a touch of chardonnay (and grape list includes chardonnay). It was drier than I expected (good) and drier than one tried on cellar tour. Tried their 2022 Ried Alsegg-Hernals Riesling - good dry & more minerally like Canadian Rieslings than German Rieslings I have tried. Very nice. Dessert wine was 2021 Traminer “Nussberg” - nice and not overly sweet. Taste similar to a Canadian icewine but not nearly as sweet. Restaurant has about 30 tables. A fantastic place. This place is a real wine-garden. Only Austrians there that I can tell (though a Japanese couple came half way through meal).
Wirtshaus Rechthaler Hof, Munich (Next to Munich Hbf)
Hunter’s schnitzel with bacon and mushroom sauce and späaetzle tossed in butter. Great!
Gaststätte Grossmarkthalle, Kochelseestraße 13, Munich. Excellent weißwurst and two large pretzels. It was rated as having the best weißwurst in Munich. The sausage was very good. Typically a beer is had with this at breakfast time. They didn’t have any cider so I had it with Grüner Vetliner. I realized I don’t like wine for breakfast – only drank half of it.
Irmi restaurant, Goethestraße 4, Munich
Great spaetzle & schnitzel. Had schnitzel with potato salad. Both excellent! Potato salad had a lighter dressing than just mayonnaise and had very thin slices of English cucumber in it that really made it. Had a very good Sauvignon Blanc. This was the first restaurant where I got the bill as soon as I finished eating!
Adão restaurant, Ave. da República 1, Faro. Interesting tuna salad. Came with rare tuna slices top with tiny dollop of wasabi mayo. Also greens, strawberries & mango. Very nice. See pic.
Cantinho da Ronha, Rua do Bocage 55, Faro
Bread with butter and sardine patè good. Their version (or the Portugese version) of gaspacho is not pureed but is chunky and has cubes of bread in it. I can’t remember if my recipe has onions but I could see adding a Spanish or Vidalia onion to the recipe and trying it this way.
Had the Aveleda Loureiro & Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2021 dry white - very good crisp & lightly citrusy which went great with shrimp! (Remembered that I’ve had an Aveleda in Canada but not which one.)
Pastelaria Coelho, Rua Brites de Almeida 2, Faro
I had the white sea bream which was very good - just grilled with olive oil and garlic. Fresh, so simple, so good. Starter soup was pureed vegetables with some leaves, maybe spinach which was quite good. Had an okay white wine - Planalto Vinho Branco Seco 2021 from the Douro region (Casa Ferreirinha). This wine was offered in three restaurant when I asked for a dry white wine.
Jony’s Restaurant, Largo da Fortaleza, Armação de Pêra
Had great sardines, a Portuguese specialty.
MUSEUMS
Alte Pinakothek, Barer Straße 27, Munich:
Da Vinci (rm V) – sublime
Der Schmadribachfall - power & grandure of nature.
Italia and Germania - consoling.
Morgan nach einer Sturmnacht - desolation & loss.
Three by Delacroix - not impressed with his loose style. Also with Gainsborough though a little tighter style than Delacroix and his Mr. Thomas Hibbert was his best there (of 4).
Drürer self-portrait (rm I) - excellent
Of the 2 Canalettos, I like the upper in description pic. Better light & shadow esp on building front at right. Other one has too uniform overall brightness.
Kunsthistorische Museum:
Paintings by Bernardo Bellotto who was nephew and student of Canaletto hence the similarity to his cityscapes. At first glace could be mistaken for Canaletto but all are darker. Seven paintings here. His contrast of light & dark, particularly in intimate backstreet scenes, is better than his expansive views of palaces and grounds, though the picture of Schönbrunn Palace is very good. Two in particular - Vienna, Dominican Church, and The Freyung in Vienna viewed from south east.
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
Deutsches Museum, Munich
Franz Hals Museum, Haarlem:
Gerrit Berckheyde (Haarlam) is the Dutch version of Canaletto. Talented exteriors but interiors as well.
Also saw some very good still lifes. See pics.
MALTA
Ġgantija (full name: it-Tempji tal-Ġgantija) is a megalithic temple complex from the Neolithic era (c.3600–2500 B.C.). Located on Gozo. A small museum beside the site has various artifacts and detailed descriptions of the site.
Travelled to Gozo on Captain Morgan Best of Gozo & Comino boat tour. Excellent tour comprised of the ride to Gozo and Comino and a 2 1/2 hour bus tour of Gozo. I got off the bus at the town of Victoria and walked cross-country (about 40 minutes) to visit the Ġgantija temple and museum, then caught the tour bus to go back to the boat.
WINTER STAYS IN PORTUGAL
Albufiera may be better, re expat community. Or another large community. See Rick’s video where he mentions communities with mostly expats (disparagingly).
But winter weather is best the farther east you go in the Algarve.
Need to research weather - find blog for different cities.
Check out islands in Ria Formousa near Loulé and its golf courses.
Check out Loulé - actually Quarteira (10 min by train from Faro)
Faro notes:
Sylvie's Place, Rua do Bocage Nr.19. Note that her place has heaters as well as air conditioning.
Good size town with lots of facilities but “beach” area is poor, more of a flood plain.
Laundramate - Wash & Plus, Praça Alexandre Herculano, Faro
Tavira was quite small and beach area is on an island offshore reached by ferry.
Sitio (above Nazaré) O Luis seafood restaurant
Camel cigarettes €5.00 from machine!
If buy Lamy pen get fine tip. Medium is too heavy. Add this to Togs blog.
MUNICH
Check out Mionetto Spritz which is described as bittersweet in flight guide. Called a “flavoured wine apertif” which may be similar to Aperol.
Lufthansa bus to airport is half the price of the train. Don’t have to be flying with them. Buy ticket online before using — driver doesn’t speak English and is not at all helpful in buying ticket on the bus. Bus parks near the Wirtshaus Rechthaler Hof.
VIENNA
Rathaus Wein & Design, Lange Gasse 13
(Take #2 line tram from/to Josefstädter Staße)
20th district (Gemeindebezirke or Bezirke) many wineries and attached restaurant (heuriger).
Tram #38 to Grinzing or tram #60 to Rodaun. Order Gemischter Satz wine. Usually eat local sausage & cheese.
Best Heurigers in Vienna (the two I went to are above)
Mayer am Nussberg, Kahlenberger Staße 213 (Take D line to Sickenberggasse stop). - Vineyards !
Zum Martin Sepp Heuriger, Cobenzlgasse 34 (Take U4 toward Heilingenstat to Heilingenstat, then 38A bus toward Kahlenberg to Oberer Reisenbergweg). - Beautiful!
Julius Meinl - best coffee. Which I had. Vienna capuccino is best. Strong but not at all bitter.
Viator tour booking site – Sam (Australia)
Sam recommends:
Sphendon hotel, Istanbul
Spectacular Apartments, Rome
Pilgrim’s Loft (monestary), Ypres
Belfort - 335 steps to top
(Brunelleschi’s dome - 493)
BELGIUM
YPRES
Bed & Zorg Ypres
Reception - Farhat
(Keep this info re passport photocopy) Also Brussels B&B Panda Stella took iphone pic.
Lemoncello Spritz!! Got to try using Aperol Spritz recipe - see their website.
BRUGES
Chocolatiers:
Chocolaterie Spegelaere, 92 Exelstraat (tried and were excellent)
The Chocolate Line, 19 Simon Stevinplein
Old Chocolate House, 1c Mariastraat
Hotel Ter Brughe in Bruges was excellent.
HOLLAND
Moustique:
Thyme flavouring in the whipped butter at Moustique in Haarlam was great but there was no visible hint of thyme, either specs or colour at all. Thyme oil? Found thyme oil online. Health food stores?
Zandvoort
BMW Experience, Zandvoort
€690 for basic (wet turns, J-turns, etc.), €1800 for F1 experience
YEOVIL
Manor Hotel
Stayed for 4 days and the rooms and the staff were very nice (I was at the back in the building called the “Stable”). I had breakfast and dinner there a few times and both were quite good. The one drawback is that the wifi did not work well - dropping out intermittently.
Reviews to do:
Do a review:
Lokall Dutch Beer Bar, 46 Konigstraat, Haarlem
Had Elegast cider and then Bear cider.
An appropriate name for this great little local pub. Has a real neighbourhood pub feel to it with lots of regional and national beers and even a couple of ciders. Sit inside, or outside at a couple of small tables. Only a few minutes walk from the crowded restaurant area around the St. Bavokerk.
Sorelle Zuliani Pinot Grigio - good
Fratelli Zuliani P.G. Rosato - good
Towns near Haarlem:
Heemstede & Lisse (Rick Steves recommends)
HAARLAM www.locaboat.com - looks like boat rental
OBB
traipser@protonmail.ch
Travel!957
GENERAL NOTES
Aberyistwyth steam rail
North Wales rail line - Portmadog to Caernarfon Castle (old guy at laundry told me).
GWR Riviera Sleeper Paddington to Penzance
Rick Steves favorite castles:
Beynac in the Dordogne
Reifenstein in northern Italy
Berg Eltz on the Moselle
Vienna wine festival! Check!!
ENGLAND
Royal Bath & West Show
Cider Bar at RB&W had 45 ciders!!
Mastif - eats about 1 1/2 kg per day.
Big black cow being walked - Aberdeen Black Angus - distinctive bred.
Buy Art 100 Quiz by Giunti
Soggiorno Battistero, Florence
Rm 2 is double bed facing Duomo.
Rm 3 & 4 (mine) are singles.
FLORENCE
Self-service laundry 8:00-22:00
3 Sant’Egidio, Florence
Take Tram 2 from airport to Unita station (final stop) for €1.50. That is about 5 min walk to Duomo.
Collio Pinot Grigio 2022 - Livon label. French wine maker but product of Italy. www.livon.it
Nice crisp P.G. Light fruit & right amount of dryness.
Magnolia Chardonnay from northern Italy (Venice area like Collio above) was quite good. Lightly oaked.
MALTA
Littering fine:
€1165-2230 ($1700-3250)
Note: take X4 bus from airport to Valletta bus stop which is right outside City Gate. Takes about 1/2 hour for €2. Taxi takes about 20 minutes for €25. (Except when I was there. A detour for road construction added about 10 minutes to bus time!)
At Dimitri’s restaurant in Valletta there were 5 people at dinner. 2 were French, 2 were Spanish, 1 was an Irish woman who spoke Spanish (she was with Spanish group). All communicated in English.
Google Fi - data and voice. International calls $0.20/minute Check SIMoptions website
Jonathan (Malta B&B owner): +356 770 12345
70x60tons grain underground “silos” near St. Publios church
Fresh tomatoes 2kg for €3 !
Valletta:
C. Camilleri & Sons Ltd, 195 Merchant St. - Great confectionery and gelato. Dozens of pastries.
W&J Coppini Money Exchangers give a great rate! £55 for €50 when spot was £57
Banks in Valletta open 8:30-1:30
Valletta luggage storage at:
15A St. Lucia St.
KeepYourLuggage in the shopping plaza beside the main City Gate.
For cruises around Malta see the iseemalta.com website
Check out AmaWaterways African safaris & cruises - saw on Facebook.
Laundretes (3 locations on Malta): Valetta, 324 St. Paul St.; Msida, Msida Circus; Bugibba, Triq il-Mazzola
www.etnawineschool.com Half & 1 day courses somewhere in Sicily.
Telegraph - 30 of the greatest Italian holidays
Bosinakis Winery Mantinia
White - light citrus, light mineral, like some Chenin Blanc.
Buy Kat Timpf book - funny
Hotel Central, Heraklion, Crete (rm 501) – an excellent higher end hotel. A must stay in Heraklion
Tried at Ta Tria Gourouvakia:
Samaropetra Kir Yianni, Sauvignon Blanc - nice but ordinary
Petit Fleur, the Parparoussi Winery, Sideritis grape rose
Check out Hermes Hotel, Sytagma Sq.
Mono outdoor cafe, Athens
Wifi - monofree
Pw - 2310223501
Hotel Central, Athens
Wifi - CENTRAL
Pw - TFK22G
EasyWash, Athens
Login - easywash vardaris
Pw - vardaris21
Narthix plant - cane used at Delphi. Saw plant there - in picture of Delphi.
Delphi Museum:
Kouros - 530BC
Kouros - 500BC
Zeus - 460BC
Switzerland: Niesen lookout to Interlaken view. Can take cablecar. Visite Wimmis
PORTUGAL
Star Inn, Lisbon (350m from airport
Amazing bar with food service including buffet that served until 2:00am. Breakfast began at 2:00am.
Where to try Port in Lisbon (city region) Wine Rooms Lisboa (Ajuda), Chafariz do Vinho (Príncipe Real), Lisbon Winery (Bairro Alto) Taylor’s (Alfama)
Where to try Ginjinha (also check Rick Steves video) A Ginjinha, Ginjinha Rubi, Ginjinha do Carmo
Marsuites, Armacao de Pera. Good B&B except no mini-frig or safe (Anna, the host, was enthusiastic and very friendly)
Portugese Bus Lines. Find schedules and buy tickets online, through app or at bus stations
Flixbus.pt
Rede de Expressos (REDEX)
Vamus (pronounced vamoosh) www.vamusalgarve.pt - Bus 66 from Faro to Albufiera #dT$n9^P
Eva Transportes
(note: Lisboa Oriente is bus station closest to airport)
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